torealeyes - camino de santiago

My Camino began "officially" on December 21, my birthday, in Astorga. Officially there was 280km to Santiago de Compostela, all the training I hadn't done was now playing on my mind. Fit from cycling but as for walking it really was the unknown, Somehow that didn't sound out of place, because this whole journey was the unknown. Can I really say that I still had not come up with one solid reason why I was about to start this new adventure.

gaudi palace astorga

finding symmetry in Astorga

Last rays of daylight hit the cathedral in Astorga

The detail in the statues accentuated by the setting sun

shadows and highlights change the perspective

catchng the last of the days sunlight in Astorga

The main square waiting for people in Astorga

The walk would begin tomorrow from Astorga

Art Deco shopfront in Astorga

An unexpected find in Astorga on the Camin de Santiago

Street art in Astorga

Christmas lights in Astorga

Christmas tree on the Camino de Santiago

At somewhere around 07.30 I began. If I was hot or cold, scared or excited, hungry or full, confident or dubious it made no difference whatsoever. Putting one foot in front of the other was the order of the day. The Camino crossed the main square passing the Christmas tree which was unlit and the darkness and freshness of the morning reinforced the desire to move forward, but how quickly would I need to walk today?

The camera stayed in the backpack. The first day of 28km seemed a very long way to an inexperienced walker. Would I make it before midnight? Would it be strange to say that it did not seem to matter as I had a feeling I would make the destination of Fonçebadon but on this first day was a little unsure of what time I could allocate to photography or any other non-essential activity.

Fonçebadon

Cold and very quiet. In the depths of winter there was not a lot open, one alburgue and a pizza restaurant. But if one thing can be taken as a new find, it would be looking back towards Astorga and not been able to see it in the distance. Yes, I really had walked that far, it was a great feeling, but, it was only walking, something we as human beings were designed to do. . . .

O Cruz de Ferro

Arriving just before sunrise in the hope of capturing some light. The sun rose without any ceremony to start it's first longer journey across the sky on the first day after the winter solstice. With few pilgrims around it was nice to find this painted stone and spend some time contemplating the number of people that had passed the spot and walked away with a lightness of being.

The descent

After the climb of the first day out of Astorga the thought of the descent after the Cruz de Ferro came as a welcome relief. Once again the Camino had a way of teaching you to not think ahead, it was possibly tougher than the climb! The loose ground and steepness were certainly very challenging. Some pilgrims chose the road, but they had walked the Camino before and knew that the road and path led to the same point.

Finally reaching the road on the outskirts of Molinaseca was a relief. There had been nothing open since Foncebadon and the thought of a coffee had become reoccurring. The road felt hard and unforgiving, the muscles had tightened and whether my boots needed tightening or loosening was a conundrum that could not be solved until a cafe had been reached.

7 kms from Molinaseca to Ponferrada were on the road, uneventful and tiring. All the good intentions upon arriving in Ponferrada were set aside on sitting down, only standing again to shower, eat and fall into bed and quickly to sleep.

Day3

Tired, wide-eyed and tired. Longing to be back in the countryside, out from the concrete and cars and the seemingly pointlessness of it all. Having left in the dark it felt OK to ignore everything around me, just concentrate on the steps and wait for the sound of gravel under my feet. Flat terrain and nothing to brighten up a dull start today. Coffee and a snack in Cacabelos lifted the spirits and lightened the backpack. Exiting the tarmac and entering the vineyards brought out a wind that was laced with fine raindrops, you know the ones that you cannot really feel but get you really wet, really quickly. Somehow, it felt good, refreshing. Small villages and undulating terrain passed quickly as the outskirts of Villafranca del Bierzo came into view.

Still with a long way to walk to reach the end of todays stage it was a quick coffee stop and back on the road. Just on the outskirts of Villafranca there was what appeared to be a choice, the low road or the high road and with hindsight I may have chosen the high road. We make decisions for good reasons but the road I walked was very tough on my tired legs and feet. Literally walking along the side of a road, not a very busy road but it felt industrial and even the river running along the side. When the thought that keeps entering your head is, "how far to go?" , it is time to stop thinking, breath deep and enjoy the walk, no matter how far or how long, each step will get you nearer, so, enjoy each step.

Trabadelo was welcome relief and a last stop for the day. Inside O Nova Rata there was a fire burning and a warm welcoming atmosphere, ordering a coffee and taking it outside was the only option. Warmth and comfort would have closed my eyes and getting up would have been difficult.

Arriving at Valcarce La Portela was a mixture of emotions, relief, as I honestly believe I could not have walked any further that day and disappointment. It was a big truck stop, could not have been further from the spirit of the Camino. But if we stop thinking and just go with what we have all of that worry dissipates. Room was great, warm clean quiet. Food was good, there was a shop for some treats for tomorrow, and tomorrow is the big climb up to O Cebreiro.

The climb up to O Cebreiro on Christmas Eve.

My feet hurt!